Banana Palm: Modern Vietnamese by the beach
While many of Coogee’s seasonal visitors make a beeline for its numerous burger joints, ale houses and kebab shops, for years Coogee locals have lamented the area’s lack of high quality eating establishments. Thankfully, things are changing in the buzzing beachside suburb, with a handsome new crop of respectable restaurants popping up in the bustling village hub opposite the beach.
Opened in 2004, Banana Palm’s success has arguably led the way in redefining the Coogee dining scene. It really is one of those neighbourhood restaurants we’d all love to own – classy enough to take a date or visitors, but with a moderately priced, varied and interesting menu.
Vietnamese chef Hai Pham brings together the fresh, herbaceous, aromatic cuisine of his homeland with French colonial and modern Australian influences. The result is tasty and well executed, if not entirely authentic dishes that look far prettier than what your average cheap and cheerful pho joint is ever likely to whip up.
Seared scallops make an attractive proposition for entrees – huge and plump. They’re handsomely presented on Chinese soup spoons and drizzled with a mild, earthy and tangy black bean vinaigrette. More traditional is the goi cuon, fresh rice paper rolls with pork, prawn, mung beans and fresh herbs (a vegetarian version is also available), and a salad of lotus stem, chicken breast, prawns and peanuts.
The star of the mains is the warm roast duck breast salad featuring generous, tender chunks of duck, with zesty mint, red onions and crispy fried eschallot cutting through a tangy, slightly sour and spicy dressing. There are a few mild, creamy Vietnamese curries (using either beef, spatchcock or lamb shank) to savour, as well as steamed barramundi with ginger, shallots and soy sauce, and braised chicken stuffed with mushrooms and water chestnuts. Desserts are where the ‘French colonial’ really comes in, with the kitchen turning out a commendable crème brulee and poached pear.
The restaurant’s elegant, subdued interior takes its cues from the French dining rooms of colonial era Saigon, with soft jazz music in the background and an understated, "old Europe meets the tropics" feel. Banana Palm is a surprisingly seductive neighbourhood restaurant, and certainly one of the best choices by the beach for a casually stylish spot of Asian cuisine.
Posted by Fiona Davies
