Pizza E Birra - simple and sexy
As likeable as they are, beer and pizza aren’t synonymous with sexy. But when they’re served by Italian accented waiters in a glass enclosed converted warehouse space in Surry Hills, suddenly these everyday ingestibles seem a whole lot more sensuous. Pizza and beer. Simple and sexy.
The room’s understated styling has an air of industrial chic, with polished terrazzo floors, exposed concrete ceilings and butcher’s paper topped tables. You can peer into the kitchen and watch the wood fired oven at work from an open window near the front door, and there’s an elegant bar in one corner of the room, where you’ll likely find yourself waiting if you arrive too late to bag a table. Despite its discrete appearance, Pizza E Birra is frequently lively, often full with young families, and the affable young staff drive the welcoming, energetic atmosphere of the restaurant.
The house-branded beer comes from Holgate Brewhouse in Victoria and while it lacks head, it’s a sparkling, toffee coloured affair with a sprightly barley sugar flavour. Yes, the pizza is exceptional, and competes among Sydney’s best. The bases are faithful to the thin, crisp yet tender Neopolitan style, and the toppings aim for quality rather than quantity. Among the tomato-based pizzas is the matter-of-factly named “Prosciutto” (mozzarella, rocket, prosciutto and shaved parmesan), and there’s also a pizza bianche (white pizza) selection that includes “Autunno” (mozzarella, salami, ham, sausage, provola cheese and cracked black pepper). There’s a good choice of vegetarian pizzas including “Funghi” (mushroom, gorgonzola, buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil).
As good as the pizzas are, it must be said that, remarkably, the pastas are the real star of the show at Pizza E Birra. The tagliatelle with duck ragu is an utterly gorgeous celebration of honest Italian cooking; full of rich tomato flavour, tender chunks of duck and rustic al dente noodles.
The rest of the menu follows the same faith in tradition – arancini rice balls with four cheeses, pear and rocket salad with 12 year old balsamic, and a winning tiramisu for dessert. The blanket no bookings policy is irritating as ever, but the duck ragu pasta alone is worth the wait.
Posted by Fiona Davies
